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Shining bright: the Michelin Stars in and near Surrey

It's the gastro gong that every chef wants, especially in this turbulent year. And the results are in (and some are offering takeaway)... so let's meet the Michelin megastars of 2021.

Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room, Egham
Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room

It’s been a tough 12 months for the hospitality industry, but on Monday night we popped the corks and spilled the fizz in a celebration of our local gastronomic greats.

Davina McCall was summoned to spice up the proceedings, hosting the virtual ceremony that was streamed to foodies across the UK via YouTube. And while there were no great surprises in Surrey – with the foodie footprint pretty much unchanged – the big news came with the elevation of two female chefs to the hallowed halls of the three star club.

Clare Smyth’s Notting Hill restaurant Core and The Connaught’s Hélène Darroze both went from two stars to three, joining an elite group of only seven three-starred restaurants in the UK – two of them just over in Berks.

And a first this year: the bestowing of Green Stars – a brand new accolade to recognise restaurants committed to sustainable gastronomy, which went tou out to 23 restaurants including Petersham Nurseries Cafe in Richmond.

Now let’s get the rundown on the local restaurants shining bright… and who’s doing takeaway.

Sorrel, Dorking – 1 star 

Sorrel, Dorking - Steve Drake
Photo by Paul Judd

Steve Drake’s fine dining restaurant Sorrel has been popular since it opened in Dorking three years ago – and despite a difficult year it’s still going strong currently offering a takeaway service for at-home dining. Steve is known for his creative modern and original dishes, which (when we’re not in lockdown) he serves in the restaurant’s classic, intimate and understated surrounds. 

■ The takeaway, Sorrel Suppers are available every two weeks on a Saturday. The three-course dinner is £60 per person and can be ordered online, and collected on a Saturday at your allotted time between 12-3pm. Sign up to the Sorrel newsletter for menus.

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The Clock House, Ripley – 1 star 

Paul Nicholson arrived here as head chef in February last year, taking over from Fred Clapperton who had been in the role for four years. Says Michelin: “Nicholson uses his well-honed skills to craft refined, elegantly presented dishes devoid of frippery, using a mix of both classic and modern techniques.”  

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Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room, Egham – 1 star 

Tony Parkin sashayed into the Tudor Room at Great Fosters a little over a year ago, stepping into the big Michelin-starred shoes of Douglas Balish. AThe food is classic, with many of the ingredients coming from the restaurant’s own kitchen garden. Michelin says this is high quality cooking, worth a stop.

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The Dysart Petersham​, Richmond – 1 star

The Dysart Petersham, Richmond, interior

Overlooking Richmond Park, this high-end gastropub is family owned and run, with head chef Kenneth Culhane in the kitchen. Says Michelin: “The classic, ingredient-led menu features well-crafted dishes with bold flavours and no unnecessary gimmicks.”

■ A weekly recipe and ingredients parcel is available created by head chef Kennet Culhane and created by and managing director, Barny Taylor. All ingredients come from the pub’s own suppliers. Cost is £53.50. Order here.

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The Latymer at Pennyhill Park, Bagshot – 1 star

The latymer at pennyhill park, bagshot, surrey

Steve Smith is the man at the stove at The Latymer, taking over from Matt Worswick in February last year. He’s well acquainted with the Michelin Stars, winning his first as a 24-year-old head chef at Jean-Christophe Novelli’s Gordleton Mill in Lymington, Hants. Michelin admires his skill in taking ‘classic combinations and reworking them in a refined, creative modern style’.

•••

The Glasshouse, Kew – 1 star

The Glasshouse is part of a fine Michelin-starred family, a sister to the one-starred Chez Bruce in Wandsworth and one-starred La Trompette in Chiswick.  Food is unfussy and natural with a focus on seasonal ingredients.

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La Trompette, Chiswick – 1 star

A delightful neighbourhood restaurant serving up terrific food without the pomp and prices that often goes with top end London eateries. There’s also a cracking wine list.

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The Anchor, Ripley – Bib Gourmand

Creative and inventive cooking from head chef Mike Wall-Palmer, former protege of Michelin-starred chef Steve Drake, now of Sorrel in Dorking, and a former owner of the Anchor. The pub is brimming with character – low ceilings, exposed beams, log fires and lots of cosy nooks and cubbyholes – reflecting the pub’s early 16th century heritage.

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Dastaan, Ewell – Bib Gourmand

Michelin starred chef Angela Hartnett is a big fan of this rustic curry house in Ewell. She worked with owner and chef Sanjay Gour in Dubai, and brought him to London to work in her London flagship Murano. His CV sparkles with other high end Indians, including Tamarind of Mayfair, Zaika of Kensington and Gymkhana in Mayfair.

■ Dastaan is open for takeaway and delivery from Tuesday to Sunday. Pick up and delivery is from 5pm, and there’s an extensive menu to tempt you. Order here.

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Restaurant Coworth Park, Sunningdale – 1 star  

ascot-coworth-park-restaurant-coworth-park-caviar-tart-landscape

Executive chef Adam Smith showcases his gastronomic talents by taking classic British flavour combos and giving them a modern twist, creating dishes that are as pretty as a picture. Adam is an exceptional chef whose assured top-notch cooking, adds oomph to premium British ingredients. Steep prices go with the territory, although the fixed-price menus are good value.

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Gravetye Manor, East Grinstead, West Sussex – 1 star

Taking its lead from the seasons and sourcing all produce from their own gardens or local producers, Gravetye Manor, serves up exceptional food in stunning surroundings.

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Restaurant Tristan, Horsham, West Sussex – 1 star

The first Michelin-starred restaurant in Horsham, the Michelin judges say the “carefully crafted, creative dishes are delivered with a modern touch; ingredients are excellent and flavours, distinct and well-matched”.

■ Tristan is offering “Tristan in da House”, a three-course dinner for two to takeaway for collection on a Friday and Saturday. It is a menu of “Finish at Home” dishes, that are prepped, portioned and ready for you to cook with all instructions you’ll need, and minimal effort. Book here.

•••

And further afield…

IN SUSSEX

  • Interlude, Lower Beeding – 1 star
  • Cat Inn, West Hoathly – Bib Gourmand
  • Chilli Pickle, Brighton – Bib Gourmand
  • Cin Cin, Brighton – Bib Gourmand
  • The Royal, St Leondards on Sea – Bib Gourmand

IN BERKSHIRE

  • Waterside Inn, Bray – 3 stars
  • Fat Duck, Bray – 3 stars
  • Hinds Head, Bray – 1 star
  • Crown, Burchett’s Green – 1 star
  • Blackbird, Newbury – Bib Gourmand
  • The Woodspeen, Newbury – Bib Gourmand

IN KENT

  • The Sportsman, Seasalter – 1 star
  • Fordwich Arms, Fordwich – 1 star
  • hide and fox, Saltwood – 1 star (new entry)
  • Stark, Broadstairs – 1 star
  • Kentish Hare, Bidborough – Bib Gourmand
  • Swan Wine Kitchen, Tenterden – Bib Gourmand
  • Compasses Inn, Crundale – Bib Gourmand
  • Arya, Ramsgate – Bib Gourmand

IN HANTS and Isle of White

  • Pulpo Negro, New Alresford – Bib Gourmand 
  • Seaview, IOW – Bib Gourmand

The Black Rat, Winchester lost its 1 star.

For a full list of Michelin starred pubs and restaurants click here, but if you don’t feel like being fancy pants, don’t forget I review a stupendous number of really brilliant eateries on a weekly basis!

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